The hols have allowed me to take some time out to read and I've just consumed my first ever Dickens. How shocking to have attained my great age with such an omission from my education, but it was a treat to meet a 'new' talent. I'm a slow reader - partly due to my dyslexia, no doubt - and I've never learned to skim, so I enjoy and savour books which speed readers forget.
Poor sickly Mrs Gradgrind came up with my two favourite quotes from Hard Times. The first was her speaking to her children:
'I wish,' whimpered Mrs Gradgrind, taking chair... 'yes I really do wish that I had never had a family, and then you would have known what it was to do without me!'
Then the other reminded how difficult some people find it to describe their symptoms. This also made me smile.
'Are you in pain, dear mother?'
'I think there is a pain somewhere in the room,' said Mrs Gradgrind, 'but I couldn't positively say that I have got it.'
Here's hoping 2013 will bring you lots of good reads to make you smile too.
Happy New Year.
Monday, 31 December 2012
Saturday, 22 December 2012
Brits and the Weather
Brits are known for forever pontificating about the weather,
and it is not until you leave our unpredictable climate that you realise what a
gift our weather is.
On one of many drives between Embilipitiya (our then home) and
Colombo I noticed that the rubber plantation was changing into glorious rusty
autumn colour. The vision made me weepy and yearning for home.
That morning though the sun rose on a patchwork of fields painted in muted purples and grey-greens. Soft undulating mists highlighted hedgerows I’d never noticed before and disguised ugly buildings that would have been blots on the horizon. It was easy to see small patches of nature that shelter the Dartford warbler and other small cute wildlife.
Passages in Conrad's Heart of Darkness (first published way back in 1902) catch the mysterious but ever-changing atmosphere of the Thames Estuary: "the mist on the Essex marshes was like a gauzy and radiant fabric, hung from the wooded rises... and draping the low shores in diaphanous folds."
and at the end of the book...
[The Thames] "was barred by a black bank of clouds, and the tranquil waterway leading to the uttermost ends of the earth flowed sombre under an overcast sky - seemed to lead into the heart of an immense darkness."
We drove on, over the Thames all busy and twinkling with tiny lights and finally to Gatwick and a long-promised trip to the Polar North.
In Sri Lanka, the year-round temperature is stuck at about 31. There are no seasons. No autumn. No spring. No season of rebirth after the
winter. No change in day length. It is warm, luxuriant and there’s lot’s to
love but it is so predictable. All that changes is the humidity, and the number
of showers you need each day.
Autumn in Sussex |
The delight of England’s changeability is that familiar
scenes are seen anew. Summiting the chalk highlands at Wandlebury, there was a
suggestion of dawn ahead – a subtle yellowing between streaks of black cloud
and naked trees before a navy sky. On down through the last of Cambridgeshire
and into Essex. The ex-marshes at Dartford have never looked as lovely as last
Sunday morning. The industrialised hinterland of Tilbury Docks and Bluewater
are concreted into submission and even the slight chalky undulations and
hillocks are quarried to nasty open wounds.
That morning though the sun rose on a patchwork of fields painted in muted purples and grey-greens. Soft undulating mists highlighted hedgerows I’d never noticed before and disguised ugly buildings that would have been blots on the horizon. It was easy to see small patches of nature that shelter the Dartford warbler and other small cute wildlife.
Passages in Conrad's Heart of Darkness (first published way back in 1902) catch the mysterious but ever-changing atmosphere of the Thames Estuary: "the mist on the Essex marshes was like a gauzy and radiant fabric, hung from the wooded rises... and draping the low shores in diaphanous folds."
and at the end of the book...
[The Thames] "was barred by a black bank of clouds, and the tranquil waterway leading to the uttermost ends of the earth flowed sombre under an overcast sky - seemed to lead into the heart of an immense darkness."
We drove on, over the Thames all busy and twinkling with tiny lights and finally to Gatwick and a long-promised trip to the Polar North.
Oslo Airport - waiting to go north |
Looking out at the snow falling in Oslo |
Labels:
autumn,
Conrad,
Dartford,
Embilipitiya,
Heart of Darkness,
homesick,
Joseph Conrad,
river,
season,
Srl Lanka,
Thames,
Thames Estuary,
weather
Location:
Essex, UK
Sunday, 25 November 2012
Bear with
I was ironing a shirt, for work, when S appeared. I said, ‘”OK,
pause for breakfast.”
“Sounds indigestible,” said he, “the fur gets between your
teeth, and the claws scratch on the way down. Let’s have toast instead.’
'Or maybe polar bear paws would slip down easier - they are furry on the bottoms...'
The other homophone that always gets us smiling is custody,
so when we hear, “He was taken into custardy” we conjure some sad soul (or is
it sole?) in a dank cell squelching gelatinous yellow stuff between his toes. Or
maybe it is a flat fish that has been apprehended. Hmm... Dover Sole and
Custard – another unattractive dish.'Or maybe polar bear paws would slip down easier - they are furry on the bottoms...'
An overused expression used to annoy me, but now – with the
help of homophony – it makes me guffaw
inside each time I hear it. This is “Bare with me.” So what does she want me to
bare? My chest perhaps? Or worse? Or is she really saying “Bear with me”, hinting
that there is a grizzly in the room so I must talk quietly for fear of angering
it?
An unambigous peacock at our window |
Tuesday, 20 November 2012
Awake
Awake. Suddenly. Pitch black. Beside me, there is steady
even breathing. Opening my eyes wide, scanning around, there’s not a glimmer of
light. Dawn is still distant. What woke me? Not nerves. Not bladder. No
tension. Not too hot. Nor too cold. One part of my intestine talks to another.
A gentle breeze – outside. No quite a strong wind, moving fallen leaves. A few raindrops
hit the window. I rub my eyes. Sparks in the blackness.
“Wake me up when September ends.”
I’ve good things on my horizon: tonight a visit from my expat sis, so why do odd thoughts crowd in? A clumsy comment. An undiplomatic swipe. An unacknowledged kindness. A half-forgotten task left undone at work. Events long past, forgotten, I thought, even by me. Why didn’t I ask, that time? Could I have helped? Things I wanted to ask my Dad. Is there any way of unlocking Mum’s fading memories? “Will you still need me / will you still feed me / when I’m 64?”
“Wake me up when September ends.”
I’ve good things on my horizon: tonight a visit from my expat sis, so why do odd thoughts crowd in? A clumsy comment. An undiplomatic swipe. An unacknowledged kindness. A half-forgotten task left undone at work. Events long past, forgotten, I thought, even by me. Why didn’t I ask, that time? Could I have helped? Things I wanted to ask my Dad. Is there any way of unlocking Mum’s fading memories? “Will you still need me / will you still feed me / when I’m 64?”
An itch on the side of my nose. A tickle at the back of my
neck. Another borborygmus – I love that word. Are there enough spuds in the
cupboard? What shall we have for pud? Did I miss a text from sis? Where did I
put my phone? Waterloo – that infuriating Abba song blunders into my brain. Let’s
swamp it out with “You fill up my senses / like a night in the forest...”
Shall we go to see the Northern Lights? Will I get a chance
to start some Christmas letters? How could I forget to respond to those two lovely
emails? What about that Madagascar reunion? And the kindle version of my lemur
book? And the next Wanderlust piece? Should I get that knee op? And I must call
the bank / insurance / optician / dentist/ bike shop... Now my bladder starts signalling
unnecessarily. 5am. Intestines ask why-oh-why-oh-why? Maybe a stimulating cup
of coffee will send me back to sleep.
While the kettle boils, I make a list – with one thing on
it.
Back to bed. The cosy covers will warm my toes. An
early-bird car rushes by – some poor soul is off to work already. A click and
our hot water system starts up. 6ish. Empty the head. Concentrate on a black
velvet curtain.
Maybe I’ll fall asleep five minutes before the alarm wakes
me again.
Saturday, 17 November 2012
Tuesday, 13 November 2012
Debasing a legend
I don't generally admit to watching such things on TV but my son must have had it on: I'm talking about I'm a celebrity - get me out of here. It is engaging in an odd sort of way... fascinating watching people not really coping in what they see as an alien environment, while I sit wondering why on earth they would voluntarily put themselves in situations they must know they'll hate. But then again, we should salute them really - since facing the fear has got to be good for you: giving you resources for later. Giving you courage for future travails.
What I quickly took exception to yesterday, though, was the attribution of one celeb. He was labelled the "legendary darts player".
Well I'm sorry - and no offence to the man concerned, who I'm sure is very nice and highly skilled in his field - but how can a darts player be a legend? How can a footballer, when it comes to it? Surely a legend is someone who has really faced adversity - and risked all or even died in the attempt. Like Amelia Earhart or Malloy and Ervine??
Please ITV don't debase the English language like this. Keep at least some overblown language for the real heroes. And let's celebrate the astonishing wealth of English, which makes it so easy to avoid repetition. We've sooo many words, and it is great to be able to dip in and discover more.
The richness and scope of English really came home to me when I was living in Indonesia, trying to learn the rudiments of the national language. The first thing to surprise me was that the English to Bahasa Indonesia section of my dictionary was about twice the size of the Indonesian to English section. Why? Because there were simply no words for concepts we English-speakers deem important. There is no Indonesian word for vegetarian, for example, or for brown. If an Indonesian wants to refer to something that is brown they will either say 'red' or 'the colour of chocolate', or rather just 'chocolate'. This got me into culinary confusions. When I'm overseas long-term, I have a thing about baking my own wholemeal bread if I can't buy it. Consequently, when shopping for brown flour in Jakarta, Ujung Pandang and Mataram, I bought an interesting array of brown powers. I bought chocolate power, bread crumbs, gravy browning (or at least that's what it smelled like) as well as a few packets of very good wholemeal wheat flour.
So use the diverse language we have at our command. Let's keep words like legendary for people who have really earned such adulation, and strive to search for other lesser known words to discombobulate the illiterate and the uneducated.
What I quickly took exception to yesterday, though, was the attribution of one celeb. He was labelled the "legendary darts player".
Well I'm sorry - and no offence to the man concerned, who I'm sure is very nice and highly skilled in his field - but how can a darts player be a legend? How can a footballer, when it comes to it? Surely a legend is someone who has really faced adversity - and risked all or even died in the attempt. Like Amelia Earhart or Malloy and Ervine??
Please ITV don't debase the English language like this. Keep at least some overblown language for the real heroes. And let's celebrate the astonishing wealth of English, which makes it so easy to avoid repetition. We've sooo many words, and it is great to be able to dip in and discover more.
The richness and scope of English really came home to me when I was living in Indonesia, trying to learn the rudiments of the national language. The first thing to surprise me was that the English to Bahasa Indonesia section of my dictionary was about twice the size of the Indonesian to English section. Why? Because there were simply no words for concepts we English-speakers deem important. There is no Indonesian word for vegetarian, for example, or for brown. If an Indonesian wants to refer to something that is brown they will either say 'red' or 'the colour of chocolate', or rather just 'chocolate'. This got me into culinary confusions. When I'm overseas long-term, I have a thing about baking my own wholemeal bread if I can't buy it. Consequently, when shopping for brown flour in Jakarta, Ujung Pandang and Mataram, I bought an interesting array of brown powers. I bought chocolate power, bread crumbs, gravy browning (or at least that's what it smelled like) as well as a few packets of very good wholemeal wheat flour.
So use the diverse language we have at our command. Let's keep words like legendary for people who have really earned such adulation, and strive to search for other lesser known words to discombobulate the illiterate and the uneducated.
Thursday, 8 November 2012
Leech attack
I've been talking today to intrepid development engineers on the subject of staying healthy abroad, and they've been encouraging me to tell stories. I was reminded of this one.
A leech was feeding on my leg in Nepal. It was during the monsoon when there are lots about. There is something utterly revolting about watching a slimy black parasite bloat up on your life-blookd but I didn't want to just rip it off. That can leave mouthparts behind and promote infection.
I walked up to a woman who was
squatting by the path smoking. I asked in my best Nepali, ‘Please may I use your cigarette to get
this leech off.’
‘You have a leech,’ the woman said, looking in pity at this numbskull.
‘Yes, and I want to get it off by burning it with your cigarette’
‘Don’t be daft,' she said, ripping it off my leg and cackling.
She must have had some skill, though, because she didn’t leave the
mouthparts behind. I just had to walk home with blood dribbling down my leg - because of the anticoagulant. Most unattractive.
An unfed leech |
Sunday, 28 October 2012
Literacy
I had to smile when I strayed
across a review of my travel narrative, Lemurs of the Lost World, on
Amazon.co.uk recently. It read
‘Disappointing
I had not expected so much text and so few photographs or illustrations. I should have read the detailed description more fully!’
I had not expected so much text and so few photographs or illustrations. I should have read the detailed description more fully!’
I guess I should be grateful that the purchaser – who probably
bought the book for a few pence – bothered to post a review at all. It is,
after all, unbelievably difficult to get readers to feedback in this way, but I
really... ask you – what is a writer supposed to do with feedback like this?
Too many words. Not unreadable or boring, turgid or inaccessible, but just too
many. Or rather too many pages of text. Did he even read it? I think not....
Author sighs a deep depressed sigh and leaves her desk
to make a strong cup of coffee.
Thursday, 25 October 2012
Drizzle
It is a dank autumn day in Cambridge. People have their
collars turned up but the morning mist has reminded me of the cheery Nepali folk-song,
Simsim Paani. The song is about
drizzle but it is a celebration not a condemnation. Nepalis say that rain is a
blessing and that thought always makes me smile, and simsim paani sounds so much more poetic than drizzle.
Even in the greyest of weather, I can drift into cosy
recollections of our magical six years in Nepal. A Glimpse of Eternal Snows will allow you to
travel there too, to revel in the scenery our family so loved. Photographs
relating to the book are at www.wilson-howarth.com.
Publication of the first edition of Glimpse gave me the privilege of discussing my writing with my
readers and of hearing others’ moving stories. One spoke of how strongly she
connected with my experiences. The link was not because she had the slightest
interest in Nepal, nor because she had experience of raising a different child.
This women’s mother, who suffers from dementia, effuses delight and notices
very different things when taken out in her wheelchair, just as David had done.
Such different people, who are so easily written off as disabled or handicapped,
can teach us to see again the little things that make a big difference. They
can show us how to enjoy our familiar environments with fresh new eyes. I trust that this book will equip others to
find that joy as well. Perhaps too it will stimulate some to re-examine what is
truly important in life.
The few certainties in our existences are pain, death and
bereavement yet these are topics that we tend to shy away from in the West: the
English in particular worry about saying the wrong thing. I hope that my book wil
encourage more of us to talk about difficult subjects more often, and so
comfort those who need words to help them heal.
Adapted from the Afterword of my new memoir
My favoutite mountain emerging from the morning miasma |
Tuesday, 23 October 2012
Forever doubting
I strayed across an encouraging statement by 2007 Man Booker prize winner Anne Enright.
She said "only bad writers think their work is really good."
I take from this that forever doubting is normal - and even, perhaps a sign of talent!
Maybe this also explains why authors like to huddle together for mutual support... on this lovely sofa for example.
She said "only bad writers think their work is really good."
I take from this that forever doubting is normal - and even, perhaps a sign of talent!
Maybe this also explains why authors like to huddle together for mutual support... on this lovely sofa for example.
With some of my fellow authors from Walden Writers discussing works in progress - Rosemary Hayes is on the left and Penny Speller on the right. Thanks to Amy Corzine for the photo |
Sunday, 14 October 2012
Madagascar
Saturday / yesterday saw an unusual gathering in London - of 70 people with links to Madagascar; it was great to catch up with so many people with a passion for the Great Red Island. The meeting was organised by the most excellent Anglo-Malagasy Society.
Lemur expert Alison Jolly (in the centre of the photo) advised and helped us plan our research when we were setting up our first expedition to Madagascar which eventually led to the Crocodile Caves expedition and to my LEMURS OF THE LOST WORLD. Alison has written extensively on Madagascar, and most recently has produced a series of delightful story books aimed at 4 - 8 year-olds to promote lemur conservation; she's holding a couple of examples.
My first trip to Madagascar was at a time when the country was just opening up to outsiders and Hilary Bradt (on the right) got in touch for tips on her first trip; subsequently she became a faithful friend to me, and to Madagascar. She has written many editions of the Bradt Guide to Madagascar, and is of course the founder of Bradt Guides publisher of A GLIMPSE OF ETERNAL SNOWS.
The Making of a Sportsman
My
Dad was a school master [his choice of job description], a man of letters, a
lover of books and language. He headed up the PE department in an inner London
school and he had a life-long passion for fitness, and games. Even in his old
age he loved to play scrabble, or even snap. This week I had the privilege of
celebrating his life by presenting the Joe Wilson memorial cup to the sportsman of the
year at Ernest Bevin College – the school where he taught in the ’60s, ’70’s and
early ’80s. This was at the school’s first dedicated sports awards evening and
it was full of accounts of competition successes, but in line with Dad’s philosophy,
the PE teachers and coaches also described the inclusively of the games activities
and how pupils are encouraged to join in whatever their level of skill.
I
don’t know whether Dad’s inclusive ethos came from his
father’s commitment to service, community and swimming (he was an Ulster Presbyterian of the old school and a cavalryman in the Great War) or whether it was from
Joe's time in the Army. I suspect it was a bit of both, but I shared a war story,
illustrating the tough times Joe’d had during his early twenties.
My Dad joined the Irish Guards during the 2nd World War –
when he was just 19. His platoon was in Normandy being shelled and they were
pinned down in shallow trenches.
Terry shouts from a neighbouring trench "Hey Joe: Got any
matches?" Terry had received 200 cigarettes from his Mum that morning.
Joe says, "Yes."
"Could you bring them over? I've cigarettes and no
matches."
Joe says, "Well that's tough luck! If you have no matches you can come over here for them."
"Ach Joe, we're gettin' shelled!"
Joe says, "Well that's tough luck! If you have no matches you can come over here for them."
"Ach Joe, we're gettin' shelled!"
"I know. Bring your smokes over here."
German shells are thumping around them. Terry needs a smoke badly. So he
crawls over to Joe’s trench and they light up. They’d smoked maybe half a
cigarette when they heard this thing coming. The sound of it, the scream of it.
They hit the deck, there was an awful explosion right near by. It must have
been a 120mm shell. They look out to see a big pall of smoke covering Terry’s
trench.
Terry says, "It went into my trench ... thank goodness I came over …"
Terry says, "It went into my trench ... thank goodness I came over …"
"YES, if I’d gone over there, the two of us would have been
mincemeat!!”
Irish Guards 1st Company Christmas 1945 - Joe has the ball |
Water polo 1945 - Joe is 3rd from the left |
Joe was a disciplinarian though – in an era before corporal punishment
was banned. He delighted in telling a story about a colleague, Reg. It was the
first week of a new academic year and rumour reached Reg of an especially riotous
class, full of wild and demanding boys. Reg decided he wasn’t going to have any
trouble from them. On his first lesson with them he flung open the classroom
door and stormed in with a cane in his hand looking like thunder. He said
nothing but stroke up to his desk, slammed the cane down hare and glared at the
class. He must have looked homicidal. Then he started his lesson. He was
treated with respect verging on awe and never felt the need to use the cane or
even threaten anyone.
Current teachers, of course use different techniques to gain their
pupils attention and respect, and one of Dad’s big things was to give lots of
awards, medals, colours and certificates. I was encouraged in this way and
still proudly keep my award for having swum 50 yards, when I was seven.
Joe was great in encouraging his pupils – as well as his family – to try
new stuff, and not be afraid of messing up. A favourite expression was,
‘Go on – give it a go!’
I believe that my Dad encouraged loads of people to try things even if
they weren’t sure they’d make a success of it. He knew that small victories and
successes give you something to be proud of – and when you feel good about what
you’ve achieved, it allows you to make a success of yourself.
Labels:
2nd World War,
cavalryman,
Cologne,
Ernest Bevin,
games,
Irish Guards,
Normandy,
PE,
Presbyterian,
sport,
sports award,
swimming,
swimming gala,
teacher,
trench,
war story,
warfare
Monday, 8 October 2012
Remembering Swindon
Life as a GP is so full on that it is a rare thing to do nothing. Maybe that's why rail travel is such a treat. Hurtling through the landscape, it is easy to let the mind drift while interesting or beautiful images flash by, or placenames awake some fond reminiscence. Some journeys convince me that England is too crowded, too covered in concrete, too tamed, but then there is a journey like yesterday's where England really does seem like a green and pleasant land.
I left the ridiculously Gothic Bristol Temple Meads to rocket east through wonderfully undulating agricultural scenery of the Vale of the White Horse, which looked especially attractive to this East Anglian flatlander.
We swept by russet cattle, and then a kestrel, suspended so still in the air that he looked like he was perched and merely exercising his wings. Then a huge evil-looking circling bird grabbed my attention, but it turned out to be a microlight. Then more signs of the British at play: two hot air balloons rising above the flooded fields, rushing brown streams, hedgerows and little woods with the strange sinuous white horse carved in the chalk down behind. The shadows were long and the clouds had silver linings. They blushed red then turned to a muted orange. Shiny vapour trails looked increasingly like an alien invasion as we drew closer to Heathrow.
The purpose of my journey was a meeting of travel health boffins, and the keynote speaker (and gap year guide author) Tim Beacon talked about what people get up to on their gap years and how easy it now is to keep in touch with home. Yes you can blog about your adventure, or you can just enjoy the experience. Tim isn't the first person to suggest that people either live or they write - so perhaps that's a good thought on which to stop this post.
Bristol Temple Meads Station |
We swept by russet cattle, and then a kestrel, suspended so still in the air that he looked like he was perched and merely exercising his wings. Then a huge evil-looking circling bird grabbed my attention, but it turned out to be a microlight. Then more signs of the British at play: two hot air balloons rising above the flooded fields, rushing brown streams, hedgerows and little woods with the strange sinuous white horse carved in the chalk down behind. The shadows were long and the clouds had silver linings. They blushed red then turned to a muted orange. Shiny vapour trails looked increasingly like an alien invasion as we drew closer to Heathrow.
The purpose of my journey was a meeting of travel health boffins, and the keynote speaker (and gap year guide author) Tim Beacon talked about what people get up to on their gap years and how easy it now is to keep in touch with home. Yes you can blog about your adventure, or you can just enjoy the experience. Tim isn't the first person to suggest that people either live or they write - so perhaps that's a good thought on which to stop this post.
Reminiscences of the Magic Roundabout and crazily busy hospital jobs |
Thursday, 27 September 2012
On Extermination
I grew up in suburban Surrey with a fascination of pond life... nose close to water surface, you can witness battles as exciting on any safari. Visiting the home I grew up in this week, I had time to dip into another treasuretrove: my Ballymena-born Dad's library. An Ulster Childhood (written in 1922) caught my eye and the author bio made me smile. Lynn C Doyle is a pen name: say it out loud and you'll hear linseed oil.
Doyle's writing style is lovely but I was a touch offended when I read that rural people of Northern Ireland seem to diss pond-dwellers. They used to say....
"A newt [is] a 'man-creeper', a wicked insect [sic] that if you fall asleep by a waterside crawls down your throat and exterminates you."
I like newts, especially crested newts: they give a touch of the exotic to an English puddle, pond or stream. So what is it about such benign, belly-crawling creatures that scares people so?
Is it that we need creatures to fear (in Ireland there are no venomous snakes)? In Nepal too people have unfounded anxieties about the shiny pin-striped skink - a fine and beautiful reptile that villagers say kills on contact.
Fortunately that is complete twaddle too.
Doyle's writing style is lovely but I was a touch offended when I read that rural people of Northern Ireland seem to diss pond-dwellers. They used to say....
"A newt [is] a 'man-creeper', a wicked insect [sic] that if you fall asleep by a waterside crawls down your throat and exterminates you."
I like newts, especially crested newts: they give a touch of the exotic to an English puddle, pond or stream. So what is it about such benign, belly-crawling creatures that scares people so?
Is it that we need creatures to fear (in Ireland there are no venomous snakes)? In Nepal too people have unfounded anxieties about the shiny pin-striped skink - a fine and beautiful reptile that villagers say kills on contact.
Fortunately that is complete twaddle too.
Monday, 17 September 2012
Home help
Sunday, 9 September 2012
F-f-f-freezing
We’d stopped rowing after a tough, one-kilometre ‘piece’. My
mop of unruly hair was annoying; it tickled my face and was in my eyes and
mouth. Finally I had a chance to show it who was boss – tame it with a bungee.
I took off my glasses to polish off the steam. They caught awkwardly in my wild
hair and I saw them catapult into the river. I lunged for them but all I
achieved was to rock the boat. ‘My glasses!’ I shrieked. C at stroke tried to
grab them too but they sank amongst ribbons of long green weed. ‘I’ll go in!’ C
said, but cox forbade her. I considered disobedience. I could feign a swoon and
tumble into the river. Or stand and dive in. While I was dithering, they disappeared
into the murk.
Cox sympathised but said, ‘It’s really deep here. There’s no
chance of finding them.’
That was a challenge I couldn’t resist. I was a SCUBA diver.
I was a cave-diver. I’d swum across a fjord. I’d find them, even if sometimes I’d
temporarily lose them when I put them down on the bed at home.
We stacked the blades and eight in the boathouse and while still
steamy from the row, C & I returned to the site of the sinking. We knew
where my glasses were, but they were light, and could have floated away from
where I’d dropped them. The river on the Stourbridge Meadow side was thigh deep
where I slipped into the water. I’d kept my trainers on for fear of broken
glass and hypodermic but could still that the bottom was squidgy. The water was
colder than I expected. Much colder. This was summer, for heaven’s sake. Why
was it so cold?
I allowed myself to fall forward. Sheesh, it was f-f-freezing.
The cold made me gasp and pant however hard I tried to slow my breathing. How
was I going to be able to hold my breath and search the river bottom while I
was gasping and spluttering? Then there was the issue of brain freeze. I tried
to get all the pain over in one go and dipped right under the water. I was
assaulted by pain in my scalp. This was daft. C was shouting encouragement from
the bank. I had to do a few dives at least.
‘Two-thirds of the way across. There! You’re in the right place,
Jane! Try there!’
I did. Head down, legs in the air to take me down. It was
deep. Brain freeze. I grabbed my nose to clear my ears. Further down. It was
about three metres deep here. Who’d have guessed the sleepy old River Cam at
Cambridge is three metres deep? I couldn’t see much. I reached the silty
bottom. Quick feel around. My hand closed around a shell. Out of breath. Swam for the surface. More
gasping and panting. Breath back. ‘Anything?’ C asked.
‘A freshwater mussel shell!
‘Can you see anything?’
‘Yes. More than I was expecting – even without my glasses
on.’
‘You’re opening your eyes?’
‘Yes... but it’s sooo cold.’
Brain aching, I surface-dived again. Managed to feel around
on the bottom for a second or two. Found a lager can. Saw the red of a Coke
can. A silt-covered wine bottle. A hunk of wood. Searching raised the sediment
and made it more difficult to see. Need air. Up to air. I surfaced, spluttering
and disorientated, in the middle of the river. I swam back to the place of
sinking. Dived down. Gulping. Anxious not to swallow any Weil’s-laced water. Cleared
my ears. Not much time searching.
‘I’m coming in!’ C shouted from the bank.
‘Wow! Really? You don’t have to.’ And she was in, gasping. Fighting
the cold.
A few dives later, with C trying to convince herself the
water temperature was ‘refreshing’, we concluded we needed masks. C had a wetsuit too. ‘Yeh but I’ll do a few
more dives. I’m getting used to it. A bit.’ My scalp wasn’t aching any more and
I had better breath-control. And I’d found a bit of river with long ribbons of weed
just like where my glasses had sunk. I dived down, swimming between the clingy Carlsberg-green
strands, searching. The glasses could be caught amongst the weed. I found a
traffic cone, a bit of fence, a fishing weight, and various unidentifiable
items. I needed a mask. Up for a breath.
Down again, I reached a patch of cabbagey plants, and a big
block of concrete.
A different kind of cold was getting to me now and I needed
to get out. I was grateful to C for helping me out of the water. My muscles
were seizing and it was hard to clamber onto the lovely soft grass of the
meadow.
Next day, Sunday morning, I’d unearthed some past-their-sell-by-date
contact lenses and was back with mask snorkel and fins, with A this time. I
thought of David Walliams and others who promote ‘wild swimming’. They’re
clearly tougher than me – although lots wear wetsuits, I guess. After my fjord
swim this summer I’d even thought of trying a long swim in the Cam, but now I
knew this was utter madness. I’d wondered about the temperature. If the river was
mostly ground water unheated by the sun, it would be not much more than ground
temperature which at this latitude in England must be around 12◦C.
It felt that cold. I was surprised to discover that the Olympics pool is kept as
cold as 25 but most of us swim in indoor pools kept around 29◦C.
Wild swimming info implies that 15◦C is likely in English rivers. Does
anyone know?
I slipped in watched, without interest, by several well-fed
fishermen. It wasn’t any warmer. There hadn’t been much sun all summer. While I
was standing unenthusiastically in the thigh-deep water before that first unappetising
plunge, a cruiser came by. The engines were quiet, but I was surprised just how
much it unsteadied me. It – and others – would churn up the water and my lightweight
glasses could have floated anywhere.
I had to get in. I felt like I was drawing attention to
myself. I swam two-thirds of the way across the river and made my first brain-freezing
dive into murky greenish water. Even with the fins on, it was a long way down.
I’d dropped my glasses into the very deepest part of the river. My antics made
scullers uneasy. Disapproving oarsmen were perhaps thinking of anarchists in
the water. A joined me in the river for a short while. Our attempts to search
were interrupted by passing boats. I chatted briefly to people from my rowing
club.
A quad approached. The cox asked ‘Lost something?’
‘My glasses!’
‘They’re on your head!’ His whole boat liked that quip.
One of the oarswomen asked, ‘Why’s your son on the bank
while you’re doing the searching?’
‘He’s needs more subcutaneous fat,’ I said pompously.
A heard the cox translate, ‘He’s too skinny!’
I continued diving until I started recognising the jetsam I
encountered – the same drinks cans, that concrete block, pieces of water-logged
tree... I was ready to quit, but A suggested searching downstream.
The cold was starting to get to me again. ‘Three more dives.’
I spluttered.
My left calf started to cramp. Time to get out. Not so easy. Limbs not working any more.
A – now warmed again by the sun – took photos. He didn’t
help as I thrashed around trying to get out of the water. I thought of the
Ulster dialect word – to sprockle. My Belfast-raised Dad used the word to mean
floundering about in an ungainly and ineffectual manner; often people are
laughing at you as you get up and try to regain your dignity. That was me on
the bank – sprockling. A took more photos to prove it. And I hadn’t even recovered
my glasses.
Labels:
Belfast,
sprockle,
Ulster dialect
Location:
River Cam, United Kingdom
Saturday, 25 August 2012
Fjord swimming
It had started by mistake, almost. I’d rowed the three of us
across from Aga and when S mentioned he’d packed our swimming togs, I was
tempted to cool off in the clear inviting Sørfjorden. Getting in wasn’t
easy. A muddle of landslide boulders were covered in bladder wrack and coralline
seaweed so it was hard to see where to put my feet: I’m a bit of a dweeb about
walking on stony beaches too. And it was cold. Really cold. I splashed water on
my arms so the plunge in wouldn’t feel so bad – but it was: cold enough to take
my breath away. I kicked frantically to fight the spasms. S & Ʃ were sitting
under the trees on the bank laughing.
S said, ‘Keep swimming – I’ve got to get a photo with the
snow in the distance!’
I was soon breathing normally again, and even almost started
to enjoy it. The fjord was so still I could see the Folgefonna glacier
reflected in the glinting green water: this was real wild swimming. Then from Ʃ,
‘Why don’t you swim out into the really deep water. We’ll follow in the boat
and you can get in when you tire.’
‘You... must... be.. joking!’ I spluttered. But then I
thought about it. Our intended lunch-spot wasn’t anything special. Kicking out
in my relaxed breaststroke felt good. Easy. The ripples I made with each stroke
scrumpled reflections of snowy patches on the mountaintops.
‘OK – I will then!’ I struck out back across the fjord. The
houses on the other side were tiny. Trucks driving along the main road between
Utne and Odda were minuscule, but it would be fun swimming out and completely
clear of the shore.
I was a couple of hundred metres out by the time S & Ʃ had
launched the boat and rowed out to me. I enjoyed my breaststroke – kick glide
pull... kick gli––ide pull, and the water didn’t feel that cold any more. I’d swim
into pockets that felt almost like a warm bath, but then it would be out again
into iciness. Kick gli–––ide pull... kick...
I was going strongly, though I didn’t want to put my face in
the water. I was still wearing my glasses and it felt too cold to put my head
in at all, so I didn’t rise to Ʃ’s challenge to swim right under the
boat. I headed towards a red two-storey weatherboard house. I swam. It came no
closer. Even so I began to think I might swim right across. That started a
debate amongst the three of us. S thought it was a kilometre across. Ʃ
said, ‘No – look how small the cars are. It’s much more.’
I was swimming steadily. I felt strong. I could keep this
pace up for hours. I turned and looked back. It was good to change position,
but I still didn’t want to put my head back in the water.
‘How far... d’you reckon... I’ve done?’ I asked. ‘A third?’
S was humouring me when he said, ‘Mmm. Maybe. Yes, a third.’
The rowan trees at my starting point on the east side of the
fjord still looked large. I hadn’t made much progress. But I wasn’t at all
tired and I still felt I could swim across. Then I hit a muscle-seizing cold
patch. Maybe this was what the rest of the swim was going to be like. I was
gasping again. It must be icy water welling up from the deep. I wouldn’t go on
if it stayed like this. I spluttered as much to S & Ʃ. They didn’t hear.
It wasn’t long though before I entered another bath-warm
patch, and even the next cold bit wasn’t that cold.
I turned on my back. The eastern side was still close. The
red house seemed no closer, no bigger. The water had turned the colour of gun
metal. I’d swim a bit further. To the middle at least. I looked up to the
glacier and the snow and the mountaintops. I scanned down to the tree line and
the pretty houses along the shore. Earlier that same day S & I had climbed
high above the fjord, 500m or so up the steep valley wall amongst pine and then
birch forest. We looked down not on a single expanse of water but on a varied
and varying surface – a map as intricate as any landscape. In places there were
tiny waves whipped up by undercurrents, rips and eddies. There were places
where the water looked deep dark and menacing, others where the water surface
was rippled from a slight breeze. Sometimes the water looked leaf green,
sometimes it was almost black.
From the boat Ʃ shouted, ‘What if a whale came
alongside!’ His imagination had been captured by discovering that many fjords
are 1000m deep; he was sure there were big creatures living down there. He
talked of humpbacked whales and monsters.
‘A big whale... wouldn’t come... into a fjord.’
‘What if a giant squid came up from the deep?’
‘You’d... photograph it!’
‘But it might eat you!’
‘Still got both my legs – so far...’ He wasn’t going to
spook me, although thinking of that huge body of water below me was
awe-inspiring. Being run down by a boat was a more realistic worry.
Something disturbed the surface. I took a mouthful. It was –
surprisingly – hardly salty at all. Maybe that explained the lack of seabirds.
There weren’t many wildfowl either though: just an occasional mallard or gull.
Norwegians seem to like shooting their wildlife.
Time moved on, and so did I, slowly; Ʃ – who’d come up with
the idea of this expedition – was starting to get a little bored. He taunted
me. ‘Hurry up or we’ll leave you behind.’ S was no lying in the boat pretending
– I think – to take a nap.
‘Don’t... make me... laugh... That’ll... slow me down...
even more.’ I rolled over to swim backstroke for a while but got a rain-freeze
when I immersed my scalp, and I couldn’t see where I was going. Back on my
front, I realised my hands were numb. I wanted to make fists but how can you
swim breaststroke with fists? I recalled one of my Dad’s stories. He must have
been pretty hard. He enjoyed all sports but swimming was his greatest love – a
family passion in fact. Above all he loved water polo. He played in Belfast
Lough – that wide estuary which opens into the Irish Sea. He described how
sometimes he would catch the ball then have to look to see if it was still in
his hand. It was so cold he couldn’t feel whether he was still holding it or
not. My blue wrinkled hands were that cold now.
I’d set out thinking I’d swim diagonally across the fjord –
retracing the path I’d rowed. I realised now though that, although the water
felt still and although we were a long way from the sea, there was a
significant current. The boat owner later mentioned a tide of 1.5 metres. I
changed my plan and told S & Ʃ I was aiming for a rocky spur that jutted
out from the western shore of the fjord. I swam towards a warning sign for
boats. I wasn’t sure whether this was okay for our little boat but I just
wanted to finish this now. I just needed to keep the rhythm going.
There was more flotsam: bladder wrack, leaves and a few
larger pieces of tree. The channel was getting shallow. S & Ʃ were suddenly
animated, looking out for rocks now. The current increased a lot. I needed to
swim much more strongly to make headway against the tide but I didn’t want to
kick out against jagged granite. It’s hard to see anything from the water
surface. S & Ʃ in the boat said they could see the bottom now. They were
worried about running aground. They suggested I climb into the boat but I
wanted to touch the western shore – so I could say I’d swum right across, the entire
two-plus kilometres.
Just a few more strokes. I checked before I put my feet
down. I saw clean rippled sand but that’s not what it felt like. It was sticky,
like mud. But my feet were down and I could stop swimming. How good it felt to
have my feet on the bottom at last. S & Ʃ again suggested I scramble into
the boat then they’d row me back to the jetty we’d launched from. I was standing
in chest deep water. I didn’t have the strength to get myself into the boat. I
waded in to where it was shallower but had the oddest sensation. Standing now
waist-deep I felt as if I was being pushed forward – back into my horizontal
swimming position. After an hour and a half of swimming (S reckoned it was an
hour and a quarter) my body had decided I shouldn’t be upright ever again.
The sensation soon passed, though my rubber-legs took a while to return to normal function. The pay-off was the long luxurious shower when we got back to the cottage. It was delicious.
Tuesday, 21 August 2012
Travel or travail?
I wish I was a more
relaxed traveller. I usually arrive too early, and this time is no different. I
should be able to enjoy a lull in a frenetic schedule but airports are such
attention-deficit-inducing environments that I don’t settle. I just want to get
on the plane. I’m tired after a lot of driving, in an unfamiliar hire car, on
the wrong side of the road with unintelligible road signs, feeling
sweat-sticky, tired throbbing hot feet. This is the part of travel that starts
me wondering – for a while, at least – why I travel. This is the travail of
travel. I should be able to people-watch. I should continue to take delight in
the slightly odd things foreigners do, but I’m fatigued by it all now and I
want to do home.
They’re late boarding us. We’re in a holding-pen with insufficient seating, and tired fractious toddlers. I sympathise but doubt that throwing a tantrum would get us on board any quicker. I smile as I imagine throwing myself on the floor and thrashing and screaming and shouting.
But the announcement finally comes. There are friendly welcomes from the groundstaff and the air stewards. Soon we are taxiing, there’s that pull on the stomach and we’re airborne. The ground falls away. Real people diminish to the size of ants. Cars shrink to tiny matchbox-toys. Other peoples’ lives become insignificant, just like that. I marvel at Bergen from the air; it’s a splattering of islands connected by little bridges, all populated by people, but what do they do all with their lives?
Then it’s up through the clouds into the sunshine above a white wonderland as pristine as any glacier. We’re homeward bound, home to the right coffee, my favourite muesli, marmalade and a comfortable bed. I let my mind drift as we float above the clouds, then after a while I get glimpses of ships on a still, still sea. Which part of Britain would we fly over first? I guessed it would be The Wash. The landfall isn’t right for Norfolk though. Where are we? Everything is so difficult to place from up here, but who cares. We’ll soon be home – to the right coffee, muesli, marmalade, comfortable bed and 137 emails (not counting a similar number in wait for me at work).
They’re late boarding us. We’re in a holding-pen with insufficient seating, and tired fractious toddlers. I sympathise but doubt that throwing a tantrum would get us on board any quicker. I smile as I imagine throwing myself on the floor and thrashing and screaming and shouting.
But the announcement finally comes. There are friendly welcomes from the groundstaff and the air stewards. Soon we are taxiing, there’s that pull on the stomach and we’re airborne. The ground falls away. Real people diminish to the size of ants. Cars shrink to tiny matchbox-toys. Other peoples’ lives become insignificant, just like that. I marvel at Bergen from the air; it’s a splattering of islands connected by little bridges, all populated by people, but what do they do all with their lives?
Then it’s up through the clouds into the sunshine above a white wonderland as pristine as any glacier. We’re homeward bound, home to the right coffee, my favourite muesli, marmalade and a comfortable bed. I let my mind drift as we float above the clouds, then after a while I get glimpses of ships on a still, still sea. Which part of Britain would we fly over first? I guessed it would be The Wash. The landfall isn’t right for Norfolk though. Where are we? Everything is so difficult to place from up here, but who cares. We’ll soon be home – to the right coffee, muesli, marmalade, comfortable bed and 137 emails (not counting a similar number in wait for me at work).
Loo signs at Bergen airport |
Location:
Bergen, Norway
Monday, 23 July 2012
How to use a squat toilet
How lovely to discover that I am apparentlythe Buddha of Bowel Motions according to this http://boingboing.net/2012/06/25/how-to-use-a-squat-toilet.html; an old e-interview was picked up again....and again here too http://www.whaleoil.co.nz/tag/jane-wilson-howarth/
What interest and excitinment talking poo creates!
Some of the on-line comments and responses to these posts made me smile so I should mention that various of the quotes have been taken out of their Asian / resource-poor context. The idea is to use loads of water.... there is no scooping involved.....
If unsure of the correct technique take advice straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak, through consulting http://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Shit-Around-World-ebook/dp/B0050IGW9U
What interest and excitinment talking poo creates!
Some of the on-line comments and responses to these posts made me smile so I should mention that various of the quotes have been taken out of their Asian / resource-poor context. The idea is to use loads of water.... there is no scooping involved.....
If unsure of the correct technique take advice straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak, through consulting http://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Shit-Around-World-ebook/dp/B0050IGW9U
Ladies' loo sign in Budapest |
Sunday, 22 July 2012
Friendship or elitism?
I was chatting this week with a lass who had returned to England after a stint in California. She described her excellent interesting well-paid job and her superb huge house opening onto the beach, but something was missing. She described the superficiality of her relationships – like she inhabited the embodiment of Facebook... she had lots of ‘friends’ but no real relationships or deep warmth and commitment. No-one was there for her.
That got me thinking about friends. I am not as sociable as I used to be, but I guess that is a side effect of working as a General Practitioner. My job is a privilege but my weeks are full of others’ crises so it can be a real luxury to have alone time. But I do need my friends, even if I don’t spend hours together every week. Every so often, I look forward to evenings with the right people. Those I feel most affinity to are friends I’ve ‘done stuff’ with. As an undergraduate I spent much of my leisure time caving or in various watery activities including white-water canoeing. Then with a change of location I tried rowing and hill walking. These outdoor activities can have you feeling quite miserable and you wonder why you choose put yourself into such situations. But they also stretch you – show what you’re made of.
Completing some journey under challenging conditions induces a good feeling, and if the weather is foul or I end up cold, wet and hungry, the cleaning up and the first hot chocolate tastes so unbelievably luxurious. How can anyone appreciate luxury except through the contrast of not having it?
The real jewel to treasure from working or exploring together in difficult circumstances is that you really get to know people. Particularly if you’ve shared miserable times, you discover what they’re made of, whether they’re really there for you, whether they still care for you when the cold, cold rain is dribbling down to soak the underwear. And you know who has the psychological strength to keep on going when the physical strength is spent. If that's elitism, then it gets my vote.
When George Mallory considered who would accompany him on his
attempt on the summit of Everest in 1924, one of Sandy Irvine’s qualifications for
the honour was his rowing prowess: he rowed for Oxford in the Boat Races of 1922
and 1923. Mallory knew that an oarsman of this calibre would have the unstinting
determination to succeed.
Last night I spent the evening with the squad of women I’ve
been rowing with for the last few years. We've learned that when the boat's unbalanced we each take our share of the blame. We’ve worked hard, got fit, been
beaten often but each month we improve just a little. Most importantly though
we are there for each other. We’ve rowed together, timed our strokes so we move
the water together, our quads have burned together and we’ve struggled for
breath together. This is true camaraderie and friendship. Thanks girls.
Saturday, 14 July 2012
Scope for Improvement
The trouble with any writing project is that there's always scope for improvements. I shouldn't look at my work any more because every time I go back to it I come up with more requests for changes. I'm probably driving various people mad at Bradt, making suggestions to avoid word repetitions or adding the odd extra word to explain some exotic concept. And this is as we strive to get the book ready to go off to the printer this month, well next week actually. It is almost ready to go, although I'm not sure the back cover blurb is settled quite yet.
The new cover is vibrant and I feel it will attract quite a different readership to the towering mountains on the Australian edition, and my lovely editor, Caroline Taggart who is an author herself, has done a brilliant job of tightening up the prose. This has allowed me to sneak in new material, and even so end up with a book of a mere 390 pages, compared to the orginal 432. The colour section and new maps also add to what promises to be a really pleasing memoir. launch date is mid October.
Sunday, 8 July 2012
Furious Rivers in Fluted Gorges
It had rained heavily overnight, water poured off the crags
and mist lurked over a river that looked furious at being constrained by its
gorge walls. Towards the end of our guide’s spiel about rafting, he got to the
bit about capsizing. ‘Conditions are difficult today’ [it was too dangerous for
hydrospeed] ‘and we will go straight into the rapid. We’ll have no time to
practise. You must pay attention and paddle strongly if I tell you. If we
capsize I cannot save you all. I will save the children and perhaps the
women....’
Slovenia is small but diverse
and there is plenty to do while based in the capital. Ljubljana
itself is a beautiful open city with excellent dining and a lively nightlife.
We did a day trip to board the underground train (at 27€) that goes deep into the Postojnska Cave system (www.turizem-kras.si); this is home to the
unique blind white cave salamander that lives to 100 and can fast for several
years. It never really grows up but its whole life looks like an overgrown bleached
newt tadpole. My sons concluded that these creatures needed to get out more.
We – our family of four – had to paddle furiously through
each of the rapids as the river tried to throw itself at us, spun us and up-end
the inflatable but in the calmer stretches we gazed up to the mountain tops and
marvelled at the Boka waterfall that seems to just issue directly from the
living rock.
This was our second day based in Kobarid. The previous day
we’d donned wetsuits and followed the amiable Dejan (from www.xpoint.si) up a
long scramble through cyclamen-dotted beech forest, our feet disturbing fallen
leaves and brought the rich smell of moulder to our nostrils. We were breathing
hard by the time we reached the spot where we could begin our first taste of
canyoning. Much of Slovenia is carved out of limestone, and although the rocks
seem immovable, they are slowly dissolving. There are chutes and slides where the
limestone is water-smoothed which are better than any swimming pool flume.
The
idea of the activity is to slide, slither and scramble along in the course of a
river, down at the level of dippers and pond-skaters. In places there are
cliffs to leap off. The delight is that the guide knows the terrain intimately
so he knows which inviting green pools are deep enough for a high-dive and
which you can slide headfirst into. Wetsuits kept us warm as well as buoyant so
often family members bobbed to the surface feet first after some head-first
plunges or dare-devil jumps. Our descent – which was said to be a good one for cannoning
virgins – ended in a 5m drop through a little waterfall. Alarmingly a guide
just ahead of us kissed the rock goodbye before he launched himself over the
edge. My confidence was further undermined by a comment from the guide that
people sometimes break their backs on these long plunges. I decided not to look
before my turn. At the bottom – invigorated as I waded out of a puddle that was
barely waist-deep – Dejan said, ‘Even Mummy did it!’
Lake Bled, a centre for tourism and rowing |
The landscape is superb throughout the country with the
meadows peppered with cornflowers and other lovely plants; even the steepest
ravines are covered in trees. There are plenty of castles and other signs of
the country’s tumultuous past. The extreme north-west of Slovenia and in particular the upper Soča
Valley is spectacular and
varied. There’s scope for kayaking, hydrospeed, paragliding, horse-riding and
fine forest walks. More sedate canoeing is possible on the tranquil Bohinj Lake
where mountain bikes are also on offer and there are views of the country’s
highest peak – Triglav. Or you can chill in one of many excellent open air
restaurants overlooking Lake
Bled , where the turquoise water is
so clear you feel you could reach in and touch the fish. Menus were
interesting. It took us a while to work out that Malice = Snacks in Slovene and
we’re still unsure whether we should have tried the young horse cheek or morels
and eggs. ‘Waiter, do you have morels?’
Saturday, 7 July 2012
Something Massive
I suspected something was happening. There were notices on
the cycle racks outside the Co-op on Mill Road saying that bicycle parking was
been suspended for the day. Something massive about to happen in Cambridge...
The Wilds of East Anglia
Driving ESE from Cambridge last night, heading through that
corner of East Anglia where you randomly pass in and out and in again of three
counties, I glimpsed something ahead on the dark horizon. It radiated a warm
glow. The skies were almost clear after the day’s terrific rainstorms. The only
clouds were misty streaks.
Cottages, trees and hedgerows obscured the glow, and I wondered if it had been some trick of reflected light from within my car. Then I caught another glimpse. This time I could see it was an orb, easily three times the size of the full moon.
Cottages, trees and hedgerows obscured the glow, and I wondered if it had been some trick of reflected light from within my car. Then I caught another glimpse. This time I could see it was an orb, easily three times the size of the full moon.
I thought of nuclear powerplants, early warning installations
or even some ghastly illuminated erection to celebrate the Olympics. The next
time I saw it, I made out the mottling of craters of a not-quite full moon glowing
a gorgeous orange as it rose with astonishing beauty to light up the night.
Then on the River Cam this morning, the rain that we’ve all
cursed so long and loud has given life to the creatures we share this planet
with. It’s cleared the water so that terns come spear-fishing, plunging down from
on high. Damsel-flies of jewel-brilliant emerald and sapphire cavorted and
dipped along the luxuriant grassy banks doing amazing nuptial dances, in-flight
insemination, while a humourless sentinel heron batted not an eye.
Labels:
damsels,
East Anglia
Location:
Cambridgeshire, UK
Thursday, 21 June 2012
Spinning and slashing
The slashing is going really well. My Nepal memoir which started out with a wordcount of 141,000 is now down below 130k. We did, sadly, decide to cut out an entire trek which seemed harsh, especially as it means removing staring roles by close friends, but much of the cutting has been through trimming unnecessary verbiage and over-writing. The great thing about having slimmed the book down is that I've managed to sneak in a little new material and even a splendid waxed moustache, owned by a retired Gurkha Regimental Sergeant-major.
There is an unconventional forward, we'll print some of the many reviews and there will be colour photographs too. I'm also pleased that we'll have Nepali translations of the chapter titles in the attractive Devanagari script. So we're getting closer to sending the whole thing off to the printers. The latest big big challenge is the blurb to go on the back cover - something you might imagine your could dash off in two minutes. But how to condense the essence of hundreds of thousands of words, several life events, six years in two continents... into a mere 100 words. Yes indeed how? We have been batting ideas and many versions around and are still not happy with the result.
There is an unconventional forward, we'll print some of the many reviews and there will be colour photographs too. I'm also pleased that we'll have Nepali translations of the chapter titles in the attractive Devanagari script. So we're getting closer to sending the whole thing off to the printers. The latest big big challenge is the blurb to go on the back cover - something you might imagine your could dash off in two minutes. But how to condense the essence of hundreds of thousands of words, several life events, six years in two continents... into a mere 100 words. Yes indeed how? We have been batting ideas and many versions around and are still not happy with the result.
A slightly tidier-than-usual desk and playing with Nepali lettering |
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